Why It Works
- A touch of baking powder helps leaven the eggs, making the dish light and fluffy.
- Incorporating whole milk into the egg mixture helps dilute the egg proteins, preventing them from bonding too tightly, which can produce rubbery eggs.
Egga, a tender and hearty Egyptian frittata-like dish, was my family’s go-to brunch dish when I was growing up in Egypt. It was always lovingly prepared by my mother: As she removed the steaming egga from the oven, the dish filled the kitchen with the fragrant aroma of herbs and warm spices, signaling that breakfast—or brunch—was ready. In her hands, egga wasn’t just a dish—it was a clever, comforting way to feed the whole family. She turned leftover vegetables into one generous, savory meal instead of frying separate omelettes for each of us. Making it in my own kitchen today brings me right back to those slow mornings, when I’d watch her effortlessly whip up meals for our family.
The Arabic word egga loosely translates to “crowded,” a fitting nod to the medley of ingredients packed into the dish. Egyptian egga is by definition a savory Egyptian “cake” built on a foundation of accessible ingredients, with no complicated techniques involved. If you can crack an egg, you can whip up egga without breaking a sweat. The dish typically consists of eggs, softened onions, and a fragrant mix of herbs, such as dill, parsley, and cilantro, all layered together and seasoned with warm spices.
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What sets egga apart from an Italian frittata or French quiche is not only its flavor profile, but the fact that flour and baking powder are used to bind the mixture and give the dish a boost in the oven. Every Egyptian family adds its own touch, and it’s not uncommon to see variations with sautéed potatoes, zucchini, and mushrooms, as well as briny feta, Romi cheese (a traditional hard cheese), and olives. Egga is meant to be incredibly versatile and is an easy, budget-friendly dish with endless room for personalization.
To give my egga a light, fluffy texture, I vigorously whip the eggs to incorporate some air and add a splash of milk. The milk adds a touch of creaminess to the eggs and dilutes the egg proteins, preventing them from bonding too tightly, which can result in rubbery eggs. For the most delicious egga, be sure to sauté the vegetables thoroughly: This not only enhances their flavor, but also draws out their excess liquid and prevents the egga from becoming soggy as it bakes.
Egga can shine as a standalone dish or be served as a component of a lavish breakfast spread. In either case, I recommend serving it with warm aish baladi (traditional whole wheat pita) or regular pita, alongside a comforting cup of shai bel laban—Egyptian milk tea.
Serious Eats / Melati Citrawireja
This Egyptian Brunch Classic Is the Ultimate Crowd-Pleaser
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6 tablespoons unsalted butter (about 3 ounces; 84 g), divided, plus more for greasing
3 medium yellow onions (about 12 ounces; 340 g), finely chopped (about 2 cups)
1 medium plum tomato (about 4 ounces; 113 g), seeded and diced
1 medium russet potato (10 ounces; 283 g), cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 cup)
3/4 cup all-purpose flour (about 3 1/4 ounces; 95 g)
1 tablespoon (about 1/2 ounce; 15 g) baking powder
6 large eggs (12 ounces; 340 g)
1/4 cup (60 ml) whole milk
1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika, optional
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes or Aleppo pepper, optional
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/3 cup (10 g) finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems
1/3 cup (10 g) finely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves and tender stems
1/3 cup (10 g) finely chopped fresh dill leaves and tender stems
1/4 cup Egyptian pickled green olives (2 ounces; 57 g), pitted and coarsely chopped or sliced
2 sun-dried tomatoes (5 g), optional
Pickles, such as Egyptian pickled olives, cucumbers, or turnips, for serving, optional
Warm aish baladi (Egyptian flatbread) or pita, for serving, optional
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
In a medium stainless steel, cast iron, carbon steel, or nonstick skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium-low heat. Add onions and season with salt and black pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions have softened and are light golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer onions to a plate or bowl and set aside.
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In the same skillet (no need to wipe clean), melt 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat. Add chopped tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes have softened and released their juices, about 2 minutes. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until juices have reduced and tomato has darkened slightly, 3 more minutes. Transfer tomato to plate or bowl with onions; set aside.
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In the same skillet (no need to wipe clean), melt 3 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add chopped potatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are light golden brown and tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from heat; set aside to cool slightly.
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In small bowl, whisk flour and baking powder to combine; set aside. In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs, milk, salt, black pepper, ground cumin, coriander, turmeric, sweet paprika (if using), red pepper flakes (if using), and ground nutmeg to combine. Whisk vigorously until mixture is frothy and pale yellow, 3 to 5 minutes. Whisk in flour and baking powder to combine.
Serious Eats / Melati Citrawireja
Using a flexible spatula, fold in onions, tomatoes, potatoes, cilantro, parsley, dill, pickled olives, and sun-dried tomatoes (if using).
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Lightly grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Pour egg mixture into dish and bake until top is puffed, set, and lightly golden, and a toothpick or cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Turn off the oven and let it cool slightly for 5 minutes. Using oven mitts or hot pads, remove dish from oven, place a wide serving dish over the baking dish and, using a kitchen towel if necessary, carefully flip the baking dish to invert the egga onto the serving dish.
Serious Eats / Melati Citrawireja
Serve with pickles and warm aish baladi (Egyptian flatbread) or pitas, if desired.
Serious Eats / Melati Citrawireja
Special Equipment
Stainless steel, cast iron, carbon steel, or nonstick skillet; whisk; flexible spatula; 9- by-13-inch baking dish
Make-Ahead and Storage
The onions, tomato, and potato can be cooked up to 3 days in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container. When ready to assemble, proceed with step 5 of recipe.
Once cooled, the egga can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 3 days or tightly wrapped in plastic and frozen for up to 1 month. When ready to serve, reheat in oven or toaster oven at 350°F (175°C) until warmed through, about 15 minutes.
