Why It Works
- Using dried chickpeas that have been soaked (but not cooked) provides enough starch to bind the patties without the need for flour or eggs.
- Adding a pinch of baking soda to the falafel mixture helps them brown deeply and puff slightly, resulting in a better “burger” texture.
I’ve rarely met a food I didn’t want to “burgerfy.” If there’s even the slightest possibility of taking something delicious and reshaping it into a juicy, handheld patty tucked into a tender bun and piled high with toppings, I’m in. Burgers aren’t just about meat; they’re about that perfect ratio of crispy edges, tender centers, and all the fixings you can stack on top. Falafel, with its already patty-adjacent form and habit of being sandwiched into pita with sauce and vegetables, is the perfect candidate to reimagine as a burger. Half the work is already done—you just need to reshape it as a patty, nail the cooking time, and take the leap from pita pocket to burger bun.
Serious Eats / Jen Causey
What makes falafel so great in this format is the same thing that makes it so irresistible in its classic state: contrast. A crisp, ultra-crunchy exterior gives way to a fluffy, herb-packed interior. That little bit of aromatic magic—the onion, garlic, cumin, coriander, parsley, cilantro, and cayenne—means every bite is fragrant and flavorful. This recipe was developed by my colleague Craig Ruff in our Birmingham, Alabama, test kitchen. In it, he slides one of those patties onto a toasted bun, drizzles it with a creamy tahini-yogurt sauce, and piles on fresh tomato, cucumber, and a handful of pickled onions, to create a falafel burger that is crispy, earthy, tangy, bright, and refreshing.
Craig tested a few approaches to get these patties just right. The traditional method—starting with dried chickpeas soaked overnight, then ground raw with the herbs and spices—was the clear winner. It held together beautifully without any extra binders, fried up gorgeously golden, and delivered that elusive falafel balance of crispy shell and moist, tender center. Craig found that shortcut versions with canned chickpeas didn’t fare so well, turning out too pasty, too gummy, or too crumbly, depending on how he tried to tweak them. None of these versions matched the flavor and texture of falafel made with dried, soaked chickpeas.
Serious Eats / Jen Causey
There’s a reason this method works the best. Dried chickpeas that have been soaked but not cooked still retain intact starches that naturally bind the mixture. Allowing the ground mixture to rest before frying gives the starches time to do their job, while Craig found that a pinch of baking soda ensures the patties brown evenly and puff slightly, keeping them light.
Of course, with falafel (and burgers), half the fun is in the toppings. The tahini-yogurt sauce here is deeply nutty and tangy. Juicy tomato slices add sweetness and acidity, cucumber brings grassy crunch, and pickled onions contribute a sharp, vinegary bite. When layered together, each bite is exciting, just like a well-stacked burger.
These falafel burgers are hearty enough to satisfy even the most committed carnivore, but they also shine as a plant-based main that doesn’t taste like a compromise.
This recipe was developed by Craig Ruff; The headnote was written by Leah Colins.
All the Best Parts of Falafel, Now a Crispy, Golden Burger
Cook Mode
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1/2 pound (226 g) dried chickpeas
3/4 cup lightly packed coarsely chopped fresh cilantro (3/4 ounce; 20 g)
3/4 cup lightly packed coarsely chopped fresh parsley (3/4 ounce; 20 g)
1/2 small yellow onion (2.5 ounces; 70 g), chopped
2 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped (about 2 teaspoons)
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
2 1/2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste; for table salt, use half as much by volume
1/3 cup plain whole-milk strained (Greek-style) yogurt
1/4 cup (60 ml) tahini (ground sesame seeds)
3 tablespoons (45 ml) fresh lemon juice (from 2 medium lemons)
1 tablespoon (15 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Neutral oil, such as vegetable oil, for frying
6 hamburger buns
Sliced tomato, sliced English cucumber, and pickled red onion, for topping
Rinse chickpeas with cool water, place in a large bowl, and cover with enough water to allow them to triple in size. Cover and let sit at room temperature for at least 12 hours and up to 24 hours. Drain chickpeas and thoroughly dry with paper towels or a salad spinner.
Serious Eats / Jen Causey
In the bowl of a food processor, place drained chickpeas, cilantro, parsley, yellow onion, garlic, cumin, coriander, cayenne, baking soda, and 2 teaspoons of the salt, and pulse until chickpeas are finely ground (mixture should form a very loose ball when lightly squeezed), 40 to 45 (1-second) pulses, stopping to scrape down sides of bowl as needed. Transfer chickpea mixture to a large bowl, cover, and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Jen Causey
Using a 1/2-cup dry measure, loosely scoop mixture into 6 portions, and place onto a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Gently press and form portions into 3/4-inch-thick patties. Refrigerate for 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Jen Causey
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together yogurt, tahini, lemon juice, olive oil, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Serious Eats / Jen Causey
In a large cast iron skillet or high-sided sauté pan, add enough vegetable oil to measure 1/4-inch deep, and heat over medium-high heat until oil registers 375°F (190°C).
Serious Eats / Jen Causey
Set a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet and line with paper towels; set aside. Using a firm spatula, carefully lower 3 patties into hot oil, adjust heat as needed to maintain oil temperature around 350°F (175°), and cook, undisturbed, until well browned on underside, 3 to 4 minutes. Carefully flip patties, and cook, undisturbed, until browned on second side, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to prepared baking sheet, and sprinkle with salt to taste. Repeat with remaining 3 patties.
Serious Eats / Jen Causey
To Assemble Burgers: Spread 1 tablespoon yogurt mixture on cut sides of each bun half. Place a falafel patty on bottom half of each bun, top with tomato, cucumber, and pickled red onion, and place top bun halves cut side down over toppings. Serve immediately.
Serious Eats / Jen Causey
Special Equipment
Colander, food processor, large cast iron skillet or high-sided sauté pan, digital thermometer
Make-Ahead and Storage
The burgers are best eaten right away.