Gambarogno, Switzerland, Is a Lake Como Dupe

From the summit of Monte Gambarogno, the towns hugging the shore of Lake Maggiore appear as tiny specks, dwarfed by the snow-capped southern Alps to the north. It’s arguably the best view in Ticino, Switzerland’s Italian-speaking canton, and I’m one of just a handful of tourists enjoying it. After the hike, I’ll cool off at a lakeshore beach, enjoy a glass of sparkling vino from a winery down the way, and wonder how no one seems to know about the Gambarogno Riviera. 

Located across Lake Maggiore from Ascona and Locarno, and connected by regular bus and ferry service, Switzerland’s secret riviera stretches from Magadino, near the mouth of the Ticino River, to Dirinella on the Italian border. The collection of villages charms with colorful houses, red-tiled roofs, cobblestone streets, and sun-drenched beaches, all stitched together by footpaths, hiking trails, and winding roads. Gambarogno is a place where Swiss-Germans come to “Lake Como”—that is, go boating and hiking, drink wine, and soak up a slice of la dolce vita—without any crowds, and at a lower cost.

“This used to be the poorest part of the lake—all of the villas were on the other side,” says Elia Frapolli, who moved to the village of Piazzogna with his family when he opened Habitat, a new boutique hotel he hopes will help put Gambarogno on the map. “But here, it’s more authentic. In this part, every village has a church in the middle, and some houses are still made of stone. This is how it was in the past.”

Rather than nightlife, visitors come seeking quietude. Gambarogno is surrounded by chestnut forests and edged by the pristine lake, making it easy to reconnect with nature. 

“I love the landscape, the healthy air, the splendid climate all through the year,” says Ida Locatelli, an interpretive guide at the botanical garden on Isola Grande. Locatelli has lived in Locarno, on the shore of Lake Maggiore, since 2006. 

Though Ticino is gaining in popularity internationally, most tourists stay in Lugano, or visit Ascona and Locarno, keeping Gambarogno uncrowded and serene. I pinch myself every time I have a hiking trail, or patio with a view, to myself. Here’s how to make the most of a trip to Switzerland’s underrated riviera.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Habitat Lake Maggiore

With eye-popping views of Lake Maggiore, thoughtful rooms that combine comfort and beautiful design, and individual patios with built-in hot tubs, Habitat, a sustainable boutique hotel in Piazzogna, makes a restful base for exploring Gambarogno. Be sure to order the bespoke breakfast, a delightful array of local charcuterie and baked goods, that arrives in reusable cloth bags.

Capanna Gambarogno

Perched dramatically at the top of the region’s namesake mountain, Capanna Gambarogno is a former military barracks that’s been lovingly restored by former Swiss Olympic snowboard coach Pepe Regazzi and converted into a cozy alpine hut accommodation for adventurers. It requires a 45-minute uphill hike to get there, but the spectacular views and locally sourced food—like the cheese from a goat farmer just down the mountain—are worth it.

Boutique Hotel Villa Sarnia

This historic, Art Nouveau villa overlooks Lake Maggiore in the village of San Nazzaro. It’s a quick walk to the ferry terminal and beach, and the six elegant rooms hearken to a bygone era with frescoed ceilings, wardrobes, footboard ottomans, and balconies with fretwork railings. 

Riva Beach Club

Sip an Aperol spritz or a glass of Swiss merlot after a leisurely lake swim at Riva Beach Club, a boutique hotel whose beachside access in Vira—the historical center of Gambarogno—is hard to beat. The five sophisticated rooms channel a Switzerland-meets-Ibiza vibe, with plush bedding, soothing gray accents, and funky graphic art.

Best Things to Do

Hit the beach.

With azure water lapping sandy beaches, lazy days spent frolicking in Lake Maggiore are a huge draw. The towns of Vira, San Nazzaro, and Gerra all have lovely public beaches with amenities like umbrellas, floating docks, and restrooms. “There’s a lot of what we call, in Italian, lido, where there’s a beach and you can go in the lake and paddleboard or swim,” says Frapolli. “The lidos usually have a little restaurant, so you can have a snack, too.”

Visit the Brissago Islands botanical garden.

Located on Isola Grande, one of two islands in the middle of Lake Maggiore accessible by ferry, lies a botanical garden that grows more than 2,000 plant species from every continent with a subtropical climate. Stroll past palm trees, rhododendrons, and camellias, or admire the Roman bath and neoclassical palazzo (now a hotel and restaurant). “The most magical place is the center, or heart, of the island, where we have prehistoric plants such as tree ferns, horsetails, a false cypress, and a sequoia sempervirens, also called a coast redwood,” says Locatelli.

Hike up Monte Gambarogno.

More than 100 miles of trails wind through forests and traverse mountain meadows and alpine pastures on the hillsides above Lake Maggiore. The trek up Monte Gambarogno, gaining 1,100 feet of elevation in just over a mile, is a favorite for rewarding views. After summiting, turn around or continue down to the medieval village of Indemini on the Italian border.

Explore the Verzasca Valley.

The jewel-toned Verzasca River cuts through what was once an isolated valley north of Lake Maggiore, passing ancient villages, tidy farmhouses, and numerous secluded spots for a wild river swim. A hiking trail follows the river between the towns of Sonogno and Lavertezzo, and is a great way to immerse in the region for a day. “It’s a breathtaking valley where time seems to stand still,” says Locatelli. “The valley is scattered with tiny villages made up of stone houses with stone roofs, which we call rustici. It is the very heart of Ticino.”

Wander historic villages.

Narrow cobblestone laneways, pastel-hued shops, and footpaths meandering past stone houses with tiny backyard vineyards—and hardly other tourists in sight—lend a sense of discovery to daily strolls on this side of the lake. Vira and Gerra are two historical lakeside towns worth checking out, along with Indemini.

Best Restaurants

Ristorante Al Grottino

It doesn’t get much more authentic than the sandwich board menu at this casual restaurant, which features a few local dishes every day, like burrata with garden tomatoes or thin slices of roast beef served with baby dill pickles and tartar sauce. That is, until they bring out the homemade grappa and drizzle it over your grape gelato for dessert. “Al Grottino is for people who want something easy and very local,” says Frapolli. “You drink the local wine—the vino nostrano—you drink the local grappa, like what people did 100 years ago. And you eat cold cuts, cheese, risotto, or polenta.”

Osteria Cantinone Elvezia

Try spit-roasted suckling pig, wood-fired pizzas called pinsas (made with a special flour mix), or traditional dishes like braised beef in a red wine sauce at Osteria Cantinone Elvezia.

Ristorante Rodolfo

Dine alfresco beneath wisteria vines or inside a stone-walled wine cellar at Rodolfo, a traditional grotto-style restaurant in Vira that highlights local, seasonal ingredients. “They serve fish from the lake daily,” says Frapolli. “And they make a nice fusion of international and local cuisine.”

Ristorante B&B Gambarogno

Enjoy Italian classics like tagliatelle alla Bolognese, or Ticinese specialties like pike-perch bathed in prosecco, paired with a glass of local wine at this family-owned restaurant in Piazzogna.

Best Time to Visit

Plan a trip for late spring or early fall to take advantage of warm, sunny weather and swimmable lake water temperatures, plus fewer tourists on beaches and trails. “If you really want to enjoy the most hidden [time,] visit in September,” says Frapolli. “There aren’t so many people around, and the chestnut trees start to turn red and yellow. Plus, it’s not so hot.”

Getting There and Around

The Gambarogno Riviera is located in the Swiss canton of Ticino on the southern shore of Lake Maggiore, about an hour from Lugano and three from Zurich. Both cities have international airports with direct flights from North American hubs. After arriving, it’s easy to get around by train, bus, and boat or ferry with a Swiss Travel Pass, which provides unlimited travel in three-, four-, six-, eight-, or 15-day increments. Just download the SBB Mobile app for detailed routings that include train times and platforms, bus numbers, and layover lengths. 

Though using public transportation jives with the country’s Swisstainable initiative, which encourages visitors to get around without a car, Gambarogno is a bit harder to navigate as trains only run to Cadenazzo station, necessitating onward travel by bus. Travelers short on time might consider renting a car in Lugano or Zurich.