“Being a refugee, you always have a backup plan,” said the late great Charles Phan. That would make Phan’s San Francisco restaurant, the Slanted Door, one of the greatest backup plans in the history of the business. The chef and restaurateur fled Vietnam in 1975 and, after arriving in the U.S., studied architecture and worked in the kitchens of Bay Area eateries. He then opened and presided over one of the most widely adored restaurants in the city, presenting beautiful renditions of Vietnamese classics—dishes that honored the essence of the country’s cooking—including this bo luc lac, or “shaking beef.” The key? Sear the meat in small batches in a very hot wok or skillet so it browns quickly.
Featured in “The Slanted Door” by Andrea Nguyen in the April 2009 issue.
Ingredients
- 1 lb. beef tenderloin, trimmed and cut into 1-in. cubes
- ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
- 7 tsp. sugar, divided
- 4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, divided
- Kosher salt
- ¼ cup soy sauce
- ¼ cup rice vinegar
- 1 Tbsp. fish sauce
- 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
- 1 bunch watercress
- 3 scallions, cut into 1-in. lengths
- 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
- 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Instructions
- In a large bowl, toss the beef with 2 tablespoons of the oil, 1 teaspoon of the sugar, and 2 teaspoons of the black pepper. Season with salt. Cover and set aside at room temperature to marinate for at least 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to 8 hours.
- In a medium bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, vinegar, fish sauce, and 2 teaspoons of the sugar to make a vinaigrette. Set aside.
- In a small bowl, whisk together the lime juice, remaining 4 teaspoons of sugar, and remaining black pepper to make a dipping sauce. Season to taste with salt and set aside.
- Arrange the watercress on a platter and set aside.
- Drain the beef, discarding the marinade, and pat dry with paper towels. To a wok or large skillet over high heat, working in two batches, add 2 tablespoons of the oil. When the oil begins to smoke, add half of the beef and cook, turning once, until well browned and medium rare, 3–4 minutes. Add half of the scallions, garlic, and onion and cook, stirring continuously, until wilted, about 30 seconds. Add half of the vinaigrette and butter and toss to combine. Spoon the beef and vegetables over the watercress. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Serve with the dipping sauce.
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